I am in the middle of changing the brakes on a 1996 chevy caprice. It is my grandmas car and the brakes have never been changed in the 10 years she has has the car. the rotors are pretty much stuck on and i have no idea how to get them off. do i have to remove a bolt or something?How do i get the rotors off a 1996 chevy caprice?
Grease cap, cotter pin needs to be removed. Large nut on spindle needs to be removed. It would be best to buy a cheap manual if your going to do the job yourself. If you doubt your ability to do this job, then do NOT.
The entire wheel with rotor could fall off if you make a mistake when reinstalling the rotor. Better safe than sorry.How do i get the rotors off a 1996 chevy caprice?
1)remove the caliper
2) remove the dust cap in the center of the rotor.
3) take out the cotter pin
4) unscrew the hex nut and pull out the outer wheel bearing
5) after that pull the rotor and hub assy off the spindle
6)Then remove the inner brg and seal
7) turn or replace rotor and reverse the procedure.........md
Thursday, September 22, 2011
How tricky is it to do a brake job on a 2000 Ford F250 4x4?
I want to know about changing just front pads and rotors on this truck. I've only worked on older cars (1979 and earlier), and I've never done a brake job on anything that had ABS or that was 4 wheel drive. Are there any special tools or procedures I need to be aware of?
I'm trying to help someone out and save them some money by doing the work myself instead of sending them to a mechanic. Any advice would be very helpful. Thanks.How tricky is it to do a brake job on a 2000 Ford F250 4x4?
I probably shouldn't be telling you how to do this job, but here it goes. Jack up and support the front of the vehicle, making sure the rear wheels are blocked safely. Remove all eight 21mm wheel nuts on both front wheels. Remove the wheels. Turn front wheels fully to the left. Remove the two 17 or 18mm caliper bolts. Remove the caliper, taking care not to let the caliper hang by the flex hose. You make need to unclip the wheel speed sensor harness from the flex hose clips. With a long johnson bar and 1/2%26quot; drive 21mm socket, loosen and remove the two 21mm brake caliper bracket bolts. Remove the caliper bracket with the brake pads. Using one of the old brake pads and a pair of channel lock pliers, compress BOTH caliper pistons evenly, until both pistons are bottomed out. With a suitably sized hammer, smash the brake rotor off the hub. Clean the hub surface with sandpaper, and apply a light coat of anti-seize to the hub. Install new brake rotor, and secure rotor to hub temporarily with two wheel nuts. Reinstall the caliper bracket with the new pads and anti-rattle clips. Reinstall the brake caliper. Turn wheel all the way to the right, and repeat entire procedure described. Once all is done, PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO MOVE IT. Torque wheel nuts to 140 ft.-lbs. You do not need to disturb anything with the 4x4 system, or ABS for this job. Nor are any special tools required. Hope this helps.
I'm trying to help someone out and save them some money by doing the work myself instead of sending them to a mechanic. Any advice would be very helpful. Thanks.How tricky is it to do a brake job on a 2000 Ford F250 4x4?
I probably shouldn't be telling you how to do this job, but here it goes. Jack up and support the front of the vehicle, making sure the rear wheels are blocked safely. Remove all eight 21mm wheel nuts on both front wheels. Remove the wheels. Turn front wheels fully to the left. Remove the two 17 or 18mm caliper bolts. Remove the caliper, taking care not to let the caliper hang by the flex hose. You make need to unclip the wheel speed sensor harness from the flex hose clips. With a long johnson bar and 1/2%26quot; drive 21mm socket, loosen and remove the two 21mm brake caliper bracket bolts. Remove the caliper bracket with the brake pads. Using one of the old brake pads and a pair of channel lock pliers, compress BOTH caliper pistons evenly, until both pistons are bottomed out. With a suitably sized hammer, smash the brake rotor off the hub. Clean the hub surface with sandpaper, and apply a light coat of anti-seize to the hub. Install new brake rotor, and secure rotor to hub temporarily with two wheel nuts. Reinstall the caliper bracket with the new pads and anti-rattle clips. Reinstall the brake caliper. Turn wheel all the way to the right, and repeat entire procedure described. Once all is done, PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO MOVE IT. Torque wheel nuts to 140 ft.-lbs. You do not need to disturb anything with the 4x4 system, or ABS for this job. Nor are any special tools required. Hope this helps.
Rotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?
I've basically worn my brake pads down to the bone; my car makes a pretty loud grinding noise everytime I brake, although I haven't noticed any %26quot;spongy%26quot; feeling in the brake pedal or shaking in the wheel. I don't even have to press the brake pedal all the way to the floor when I brake.
I know I need new brake pads, and my dad insisted that I needed new rotors too due to the metal-on-metal grinding, but I just looked at the rotors and they look pretty good! There is some rusting on the outside edges and in a few other patches, but no deep grooves. The rotors kind of look like records-you know, those strange old things that grandmas and grandpas used to listen to. I couldn't check their thickness, but I've never had these ones machined before, so I think they should be in pretty good shape.
My working knowledge of cars is generally pitiful, but I'm pretty sure that I can figure out how to change my brake pads on my own.
So my questions are
A) Can I change my brake pads myself and leave the rotors as they are without any dire consequences?
B) If I take the car to a mechanic to have the pads changed, do they normally machine the rotors when they change the pads as a part of the service? One place quoted me about $160 to change the brake pads, but I forgot to ask if machining is included and now its too late to call back.
C) Can I save money if I just change my own pads, then take the rotors to a mechanic to machine? If so, what would the general cost be for my two front rotors?
Also, I drive a '98 Ford Explorer, 2WD (I'm pretty sure its rear-wheel).
Thanks for any input!Rotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?
It's dire because none of us can measure or inspect the rotors. The rotor friction contact surfaces must be flat and parallel and measure above the discard thickness. Any auto-parts can tell you what the minimum allowable thickness is. You can measure the thickness with a 0-1 micrometer or a vernier caliper. Prepare to be hozed if they want to sell you rotors. Inquire how much they are and where they were made. Off-shore brake rotors can be purchased at any auto parts-store for less than $35.00. Thy are made of terrible quality of cast iron. This is a wake-up call cause chain brake shops, private mechanics and new car dealerships install these cheap rotors and charge you premium prices for what you could by the best brands for.Rotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?
Whenever u do brakes u should either cut the rotors or heave then replaced the pads need a new surface to wear into or else the won't last Long and since it's an explorer it would be cheaper to just replace them I charge45 to cut when neW ones are only 25 eachRotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?
Ok, here's what I would do. Yes, you can change them yourself. Get your pads from Kragen's/Checker/Schuukcs(my favorite). Most of the do rotor and drum machining for something like $10. Buy the lifetime pads they sell for like $30. Have them show you as they measure the rotor thickness if they tell you that you need new ones. The %26quot;record grooving%26quot; you mention could go either way as faras needing new rotors. Some brand new rotors do not come factory thick enough to be machined even once. It all depends on the mfgr. And, it being a 98, how many brake jobs were done prior to now?Rotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?
yes it is rwd or 4 WD
i just replaced rotors on the same basic truck
the rotors can be had for around $30 a piece
call your local parts store (pep boys ,murrays, ETC)
there are 2 bolts that hold the brake caliber to the rotor get the proper tool at the same time
it takes about 45 min with simple hand tools
save yourself a few bux and buy a chiltons book and fix it yourself its really not so hard
you will also need a C clamp to compress the caliber once you have it apart
i am believeing there will be visable wear on the inside of the rotor
hope this helpsRotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?
A) you could do it yourself with a little bit of knowledge, but your rotors DEFINANTLY need replacing, rotors are suppose to be smooth, not grooved like records
B) if the rotors are still withing spec, they can be machined down, but if you ground them under their specs, they'll need to be replaced. if they're charinging $160, they should be machining the rotors then, or else that's just a very expensive pad replacement
C) like i said, you can do it yourself, but there's a lot of things that could go wrong, i would recommend you take it to a mechanic. they'll have all the tools for the job, so you dont have to go out and buy extra stuff that you probably wont use ever again just for one job
and it is a RWD car ;)Rotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?
If brake rotors look like records you will wear you new pads out pematurely. The thickness of the rotor wether it looks good or not is going to make or break wether or not they can be machined.
If you take them to a decent shop/mechanic they won't turn them unless they measure above spec.
$160 to change pads sounds like includes machine work if applicable.
http://waz-stuff.blogspot.com/
I know I need new brake pads, and my dad insisted that I needed new rotors too due to the metal-on-metal grinding, but I just looked at the rotors and they look pretty good! There is some rusting on the outside edges and in a few other patches, but no deep grooves. The rotors kind of look like records-you know, those strange old things that grandmas and grandpas used to listen to. I couldn't check their thickness, but I've never had these ones machined before, so I think they should be in pretty good shape.
My working knowledge of cars is generally pitiful, but I'm pretty sure that I can figure out how to change my brake pads on my own.
So my questions are
A) Can I change my brake pads myself and leave the rotors as they are without any dire consequences?
B) If I take the car to a mechanic to have the pads changed, do they normally machine the rotors when they change the pads as a part of the service? One place quoted me about $160 to change the brake pads, but I forgot to ask if machining is included and now its too late to call back.
C) Can I save money if I just change my own pads, then take the rotors to a mechanic to machine? If so, what would the general cost be for my two front rotors?
Also, I drive a '98 Ford Explorer, 2WD (I'm pretty sure its rear-wheel).
Thanks for any input!Rotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?
It's dire because none of us can measure or inspect the rotors. The rotor friction contact surfaces must be flat and parallel and measure above the discard thickness. Any auto-parts can tell you what the minimum allowable thickness is. You can measure the thickness with a 0-1 micrometer or a vernier caliper. Prepare to be hozed if they want to sell you rotors. Inquire how much they are and where they were made. Off-shore brake rotors can be purchased at any auto parts-store for less than $35.00. Thy are made of terrible quality of cast iron. This is a wake-up call cause chain brake shops, private mechanics and new car dealerships install these cheap rotors and charge you premium prices for what you could by the best brands for.Rotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?
Whenever u do brakes u should either cut the rotors or heave then replaced the pads need a new surface to wear into or else the won't last Long and since it's an explorer it would be cheaper to just replace them I charge45 to cut when neW ones are only 25 eachRotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?
Ok, here's what I would do. Yes, you can change them yourself. Get your pads from Kragen's/Checker/Schuukcs(my favorite). Most of the do rotor and drum machining for something like $10. Buy the lifetime pads they sell for like $30. Have them show you as they measure the rotor thickness if they tell you that you need new ones. The %26quot;record grooving%26quot; you mention could go either way as faras needing new rotors. Some brand new rotors do not come factory thick enough to be machined even once. It all depends on the mfgr. And, it being a 98, how many brake jobs were done prior to now?Rotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?
yes it is rwd or 4 WD
i just replaced rotors on the same basic truck
the rotors can be had for around $30 a piece
call your local parts store (pep boys ,murrays, ETC)
there are 2 bolts that hold the brake caliber to the rotor get the proper tool at the same time
it takes about 45 min with simple hand tools
save yourself a few bux and buy a chiltons book and fix it yourself its really not so hard
you will also need a C clamp to compress the caliber once you have it apart
i am believeing there will be visable wear on the inside of the rotor
hope this helpsRotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?
A) you could do it yourself with a little bit of knowledge, but your rotors DEFINANTLY need replacing, rotors are suppose to be smooth, not grooved like records
B) if the rotors are still withing spec, they can be machined down, but if you ground them under their specs, they'll need to be replaced. if they're charinging $160, they should be machining the rotors then, or else that's just a very expensive pad replacement
C) like i said, you can do it yourself, but there's a lot of things that could go wrong, i would recommend you take it to a mechanic. they'll have all the tools for the job, so you dont have to go out and buy extra stuff that you probably wont use ever again just for one job
and it is a RWD car ;)Rotor Question-PLEASE HELP!?
If brake rotors look like records you will wear you new pads out pematurely. The thickness of the rotor wether it looks good or not is going to make or break wether or not they can be machined.
If you take them to a decent shop/mechanic they won't turn them unless they measure above spec.
$160 to change pads sounds like includes machine work if applicable.
http://waz-stuff.blogspot.com/
What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
I have a 1984 Ford F-150 truck with a 302 V8 engine in it. 5.0L.
Anyway, how do I know if i need new spark plugs? I changed the distributor cap and rotor pin because they were all messed up but the sparks and wires i am not sure about. I have the plugs now but I dont want to change them if they dont need it. What will the truck do if the sparks in it are bad?What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
it will be kind of hard to start,and will run a little sluggish,it may also loose power a lot,and not like going over hills real good,it will run weak all the time,usually when an engine is right they start up real fast,and run extremely good,id at least check the plugs in it to see if they was gaped right,if the gap gets too large in them they will use a lot more gas,good luck on it.What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
Hi raven,
Just take out the spark plug and see the condition and follwow the link..which will give out a good idea about the aprk oplug condition.To check a sparkplug and wire condition just pull out a Splug and connected to the connetor and get it touch with a earth like engine block or any unpainted nut and ask your helper to crank the engine ,the sparkplug should give out a blue spark.if it is yellow the parkplug may be bad.
In your case since it is a 1984 vehicle you better change the spark plug wires and spark plugs..which will make a complete tuned vehicle.All the best.
regards,
Nataraj
BahrainWhat are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
Change them now. You have already done 1/3 of a tune up already. You may find them to look bad when you remove them.
Rough running and bad gas mileage and horse power lose are some symptoms.What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
Misfire (miss), poor performance, bad gas mileage, black smoke on occasions... But for a ford owner, none of this is new.What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
they should look pretty clean, normal. not worn, melted, electrode or any part of the plug dammaged. but most cars will have a carbon deposits on them.What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
It's not that difficult, go ahead and do it one day when you are bored.What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
change them every 10-15 k miles regardless . You could pull one out and look at it . Usual symptoms could be rough idle, poor gas mileage , poor acceleration ,and poor throttle response .etcWhat are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
Put the new spark plugs in the truck if you have them already, you may need wires too. Usually when you have problems with spark plugs or any other part of the electrical firing system, the car will lose power when put under a load ( going up hill, etc. )What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
If they have been in for more than 10000 kms just change em with your leads.You will find it will run better and get a little bit better fuel milage.......But if you wanna check em,pull the plugs out one by one and see if they have a correct gap between the tip and the diode...Normally there is a plate under the bonnet specifieng the gap...Check to make sure the plug sint melted or all black.It should be a greyish brownish colour.
Anyway, how do I know if i need new spark plugs? I changed the distributor cap and rotor pin because they were all messed up but the sparks and wires i am not sure about. I have the plugs now but I dont want to change them if they dont need it. What will the truck do if the sparks in it are bad?What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
it will be kind of hard to start,and will run a little sluggish,it may also loose power a lot,and not like going over hills real good,it will run weak all the time,usually when an engine is right they start up real fast,and run extremely good,id at least check the plugs in it to see if they was gaped right,if the gap gets too large in them they will use a lot more gas,good luck on it.What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
Hi raven,
Just take out the spark plug and see the condition and follwow the link..which will give out a good idea about the aprk oplug condition.To check a sparkplug and wire condition just pull out a Splug and connected to the connetor and get it touch with a earth like engine block or any unpainted nut and ask your helper to crank the engine ,the sparkplug should give out a blue spark.if it is yellow the parkplug may be bad.
In your case since it is a 1984 vehicle you better change the spark plug wires and spark plugs..which will make a complete tuned vehicle.All the best.
regards,
Nataraj
BahrainWhat are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
Change them now. You have already done 1/3 of a tune up already. You may find them to look bad when you remove them.
Rough running and bad gas mileage and horse power lose are some symptoms.What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
Misfire (miss), poor performance, bad gas mileage, black smoke on occasions... But for a ford owner, none of this is new.What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
they should look pretty clean, normal. not worn, melted, electrode or any part of the plug dammaged. but most cars will have a carbon deposits on them.What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
It's not that difficult, go ahead and do it one day when you are bored.What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
change them every 10-15 k miles regardless . You could pull one out and look at it . Usual symptoms could be rough idle, poor gas mileage , poor acceleration ,and poor throttle response .etcWhat are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
Put the new spark plugs in the truck if you have them already, you may need wires too. Usually when you have problems with spark plugs or any other part of the electrical firing system, the car will lose power when put under a load ( going up hill, etc. )What are the symptoms of sparkplugs going bad?
If they have been in for more than 10000 kms just change em with your leads.You will find it will run better and get a little bit better fuel milage.......But if you wanna check em,pull the plugs out one by one and see if they have a correct gap between the tip and the diode...Normally there is a plate under the bonnet specifieng the gap...Check to make sure the plug sint melted or all black.It should be a greyish brownish colour.
Cadillac Change Brake Pads light...?
I might be purchasing a 1999 STS tomorrow and this light is on.
He said he changed the brake pads (turned rotors also), you can clearly see they are new, from a local mechanic. He said the mechanic told him he has to go to the Cadillac dealership to get the light turned off.
If I do decide to buy it, how do I solve this problem?Cadillac Change Brake Pads light...?
This is a simple fix just bleed the brakes too reset the switch. try Google for procedures. good luck.Cadillac Change Brake Pads light...?
possibly bleeding the brakes might help. Also, disconnect the battery for 5 or 10 minutes to reset the computerCadillac Change Brake Pads light...?
A cadillac dealer can reset the light for you.AJAX in .net blackhead eraser
He said he changed the brake pads (turned rotors also), you can clearly see they are new, from a local mechanic. He said the mechanic told him he has to go to the Cadillac dealership to get the light turned off.
If I do decide to buy it, how do I solve this problem?Cadillac Change Brake Pads light...?
This is a simple fix just bleed the brakes too reset the switch. try Google for procedures. good luck.Cadillac Change Brake Pads light...?
possibly bleeding the brakes might help. Also, disconnect the battery for 5 or 10 minutes to reset the computerCadillac Change Brake Pads light...?
A cadillac dealer can reset the light for you.
How to change brake pads on a 2003 mazda 6?
I just recently bought a 2003 Mazda 6 with 25,000 mile on it. I notice that there is a slight sqeeke when I break and would like to change the pads now before they wear the rotor. I first thought about going to the shop but the idea of spending $150.00 per axal is appalling (especial when you consider that a set of pads for the front and another for the back only cost a total of $40.00). I also own a 1997 Mazda 626 and have done the front brakes on it a number of times. What I needed to know is is there any difference between changing the brakes on the old one versus the new one. Are there any special tools I need? Are there any free online resources for repair and maintanance? I tried to find a Chiltons or a Haynes at my local auto store but they don't have one for a Mazda 6. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also I plan on doing the brakes today so that I may take a road trip this weekend. ThanksHow to change brake pads on a 2003 mazda 6?
http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?opti
http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?opti
That site, and mazda6club.com have all the information you will ever need for your car.How to change brake pads on a 2003 mazda 6?
No, brake pads technology hasn't changed. You could probably follow the same procedures you did on you 1997.
The only special tools are what it takes to remove the calipers. Some use Torques, other allen, I prefer just the regular bolts but you'll have to take the wheel off to see what was used.
Yeah, the Mazda 6 is too new to see anything on line too. (sorry)
Autozone has put out a great set of manuals for all older vehicles that you can get online now.
(ie for your 97 Mazda)
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker
However like I said most brake systems haven't changed much and replacement has been done in the same fashion.How to change brake pads on a 2003 mazda 6?
It is the same process for changing the pads on any car. What you are primarily paying for with brake jobs is labor. Yes, the parts are $40, but that means you are being billed $110 for labor, and since the standard labor rates for mechanics are around $60 an hour, that's about two hours work, which is about right.
http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?opti
http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?opti
That site, and mazda6club.com have all the information you will ever need for your car.How to change brake pads on a 2003 mazda 6?
No, brake pads technology hasn't changed. You could probably follow the same procedures you did on you 1997.
The only special tools are what it takes to remove the calipers. Some use Torques, other allen, I prefer just the regular bolts but you'll have to take the wheel off to see what was used.
Yeah, the Mazda 6 is too new to see anything on line too. (sorry)
Autozone has put out a great set of manuals for all older vehicles that you can get online now.
(ie for your 97 Mazda)
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker
However like I said most brake systems haven't changed much and replacement has been done in the same fashion.How to change brake pads on a 2003 mazda 6?
It is the same process for changing the pads on any car. What you are primarily paying for with brake jobs is labor. Yes, the parts are $40, but that means you are being billed $110 for labor, and since the standard labor rates for mechanics are around $60 an hour, that's about two hours work, which is about right.
87 honda civic control arm and ball joint change?
i need to know how to change the control. i have tire caliper and rotors off. and the ball joint is dissconnected because it broke. if anybody has an idea please let me know87 honda civic control arm and ball joint change?
You will need a fork tool to pop the ball joint out. It looks like a long tuneing fork with a handle that you hit with a hammer.87 honda civic control arm and ball joint change?
It's simple, just unbolt it.
You will need a fork tool to pop the ball joint out. It looks like a long tuneing fork with a handle that you hit with a hammer.87 honda civic control arm and ball joint change?
It's simple, just unbolt it.
1986 Honda CRX with blown head gasket. Help?
I was driving my CRX when she died on me. I got her to start again later, but ran extremely rough. After checking most things i found Oil in my coolant (radiator %26amp; Overflow) No coolant in my oil though. Automatically i'm thinking head gasket. I've worked on cars b4 doing small things (oil changes, plugs, wires, rotors, brakes, struts, water pump) How hard is it to do a head Gasket on 1986 CRX? Has anyone ever done one? Shes a cool little go kart of a car and does great on gas. Any advice/direction or comments would be appreciated. Thanks.1986 Honda CRX with blown head gasket. Help?
the end is high.
the cylinder head could be cracked too.
its not worth the expense, trust me
finally time to get a newer car1986 Honda CRX with blown head gasket. Help?
wow an '86 honda crx? I know that its honda and all but even honda will eventually breakdown especially after 22 years.. just get a slightly newer car.1986 Honda CRX with blown head gasket. Help?
The head gasket replacement is not a hard job, BUT it is not a job for a novice either.
Buy a Chilton service manual. (The pro book is a better buy, Even if it is over 50.00) The 14.00 book tends to leave some blanks that I don't like.
If you have done a water pump, then I think you will be able to handle a 4 cyl. head gasket, just follow the procedure in the manual and be sure to buy new bolts or studs before you torque the head back on.
(You may want to get the head checked for warp or small cracks) It is CHEAP INSURANCE!!!
BTW, I disagree with the posts that say you need a %26quot;newer car%26quot; The CRX is a great little car.1986 Honda CRX with blown head gasket. Help?
buy new car, head gasket is a garage job, needs skimming level to gurantee a new gasket kit would fix the problem of blwon original gasket. also the head may be cracked and a new or recon head would be pricy send her to the scarp yard in the sky.
the end is high.
the cylinder head could be cracked too.
its not worth the expense, trust me
finally time to get a newer car1986 Honda CRX with blown head gasket. Help?
wow an '86 honda crx? I know that its honda and all but even honda will eventually breakdown especially after 22 years.. just get a slightly newer car.1986 Honda CRX with blown head gasket. Help?
The head gasket replacement is not a hard job, BUT it is not a job for a novice either.
Buy a Chilton service manual. (The pro book is a better buy, Even if it is over 50.00) The 14.00 book tends to leave some blanks that I don't like.
If you have done a water pump, then I think you will be able to handle a 4 cyl. head gasket, just follow the procedure in the manual and be sure to buy new bolts or studs before you torque the head back on.
(You may want to get the head checked for warp or small cracks) It is CHEAP INSURANCE!!!
BTW, I disagree with the posts that say you need a %26quot;newer car%26quot; The CRX is a great little car.1986 Honda CRX with blown head gasket. Help?
buy new car, head gasket is a garage job, needs skimming level to gurantee a new gasket kit would fix the problem of blwon original gasket. also the head may be cracked and a new or recon head would be pricy send her to the scarp yard in the sky.
How much would this tune up cost?
I have 97 thunderbird v-8 4.6 liter with 80,000 miles. Car runs fine except when i accelerate it bogs like at a stop sign or when i first start it. What would it cost to replace fuel filter,air filter,plugs and wires,distributor cap and rotor, PCV,oxygen sensor,Change the points and condenser, flush some fluids if it needs it like transmission or antifreeze. How much would this cost?How much would this tune up cost?
Your engine does not have a distributor or points and a condenser so there would be no need for a cap, rotor or plug wires. Your engine is COP= coil over plug and it requires platinum spark plugs in fact double platinum's were used in that engine. It sounds like your just throwing parts at it to see if it will fix the problem rather than diagnosis the real problem. Your plugs are changed at 100,000 miles, so they are not due at this time. How about a fuel pressure test to see if the engine is getting enough fuel pressure to support acceleration and then go from there. Just a suggestion rather than throwing parts at it for no good reason. Transmission service and engine coolant flush is probably a good idea and can be done for under $200.00 parts included. Good Luck
Your engine does not have a distributor or points and a condenser so there would be no need for a cap, rotor or plug wires. Your engine is COP= coil over plug and it requires platinum spark plugs in fact double platinum's were used in that engine. It sounds like your just throwing parts at it to see if it will fix the problem rather than diagnosis the real problem. Your plugs are changed at 100,000 miles, so they are not due at this time. How about a fuel pressure test to see if the engine is getting enough fuel pressure to support acceleration and then go from there. Just a suggestion rather than throwing parts at it for no good reason. Transmission service and engine coolant flush is probably a good idea and can be done for under $200.00 parts included. Good Luck
94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
Specs: 1994 Toyota Celica
5 Speed Transmission
1.8 Liter
160,000 Miles
Just changed the brakes, rotors and pads, in which the rotor was causing the car to grab and making it go crazy. That problem was fixed but now at higher speeds only, the steering wheel has a terrible vibration.
The vibration is so bad that I can't even hold the wheel with my hand at times because how badly its vibrating....
I did a SUPER quick glance under the vehicle and didn't see anything noticeable but like I said, It was very quick as I didn't have much time.
Anything anyone might be able to offer to really check thoroughly that would cause this to occur would be super helpful.
REMEMBER:
Steering wheel vibrates at higher speeds and when accelerating into higher speeds ONLY.
I was leaning towards a mount of some sort but Im just not sure.
Thanks in advance for the help!!!!
94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
Place the car on jack stands and remove the front wheels. Snug up the lug nuts back against the rotors. Start the car and put the transmission in low gear. Check to see if either brake rotor is wobbling side to side. If it is remove both rotors and put a small round flat wire brush in the end of an electric drill and super clean off the hub where the wheel studs stick out. If there is any rust or crap on the hubs the rotors will not lay flat. Wipe on a little never seize on the hub faces before putting the rotors back in place. Check to see if the side to side run-out has improved. If not take the offending rotor back. Mount the wheels and tires and let them spin slowly also. Look at them closely for buldges or a bent wheel. Speed up the rpm to see if there is a vibration. You may have tossed a wheel weight.94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
could be one of three things. bad front tires. out of balance tires or bad cv shafts. my camry does the same thing due to worn cv shaft. 94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
check and see if the wheels are not out of balance make sure everything is tight with the brakes94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
it either sounds like your wheel alignment is just terrible or your drive shaft is going to shiv, it might possibly be an your front axle or even control arm but from the sounds of it, i think its either the drive shaft or wheel alignment, the only question is..do you have to turn the steering wheel more than a quarter turn when driving jut to keep it straight cuz then thats your wheel alignment, and if not it might be your drive shaft going bad.94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
Sounds like it could be your alignment, especially after having your rotors and brakes changed. Simple fix, it'd be a good thing to check out.94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
First,I would check the power steering fluid.Look and see if one of the sway bar links has broken.it looks like a dumbbell,:a nut then a washer,a rubber bushing,the bolt goes thru the sway arm,then another bushing,then a washer,then a sleeve,then another washer and another bushing,then it goes through the lower swing arm with another bushing and washer underneath,and the bolt head......94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
Excellent question lots of good details and information.
Differing brands front to rear will not cause vibration
Start by having the wheels balanced and the tires checked for any visual tread mis-shapen conditions, if that does not correct the problem, spin up one side at a time with the vehicle on the hoist, I suspect you might have gotten an improperly machined rotor which could cause the vibration if this is the case the mechanic will not have any trouble figuring out which one it is using this test. While the car is up also check for worn ball joints and tie rod ends which will amplify vibrations and are safety hazards all by themselves.
If neither of these tests bear fruit, the next things to check are the drive shaft CV joints, they should be checked with the weight of the car on the wheels, and the transmission in neutral, to ensure they are in their normal alignment, which will be where the wear is. If the vibration is noticeably torque sensitive (changes with the throttle setting) head straight for the CV joints.
Once the vibration has been eliminated and any other loose components replaced have a front end alignment performed to get everything back in correct position and ensure proper handling and good tire wear.Fish skin tone body cream
5 Speed Transmission
1.8 Liter
160,000 Miles
Just changed the brakes, rotors and pads, in which the rotor was causing the car to grab and making it go crazy. That problem was fixed but now at higher speeds only, the steering wheel has a terrible vibration.
The vibration is so bad that I can't even hold the wheel with my hand at times because how badly its vibrating....
I did a SUPER quick glance under the vehicle and didn't see anything noticeable but like I said, It was very quick as I didn't have much time.
Anything anyone might be able to offer to really check thoroughly that would cause this to occur would be super helpful.
REMEMBER:
Steering wheel vibrates at higher speeds and when accelerating into higher speeds ONLY.
I was leaning towards a mount of some sort but Im just not sure.
Thanks in advance for the help!!!!
94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
Place the car on jack stands and remove the front wheels. Snug up the lug nuts back against the rotors. Start the car and put the transmission in low gear. Check to see if either brake rotor is wobbling side to side. If it is remove both rotors and put a small round flat wire brush in the end of an electric drill and super clean off the hub where the wheel studs stick out. If there is any rust or crap on the hubs the rotors will not lay flat. Wipe on a little never seize on the hub faces before putting the rotors back in place. Check to see if the side to side run-out has improved. If not take the offending rotor back. Mount the wheels and tires and let them spin slowly also. Look at them closely for buldges or a bent wheel. Speed up the rpm to see if there is a vibration. You may have tossed a wheel weight.94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
could be one of three things. bad front tires. out of balance tires or bad cv shafts. my camry does the same thing due to worn cv shaft. 94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
check and see if the wheels are not out of balance make sure everything is tight with the brakes94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
it either sounds like your wheel alignment is just terrible or your drive shaft is going to shiv, it might possibly be an your front axle or even control arm but from the sounds of it, i think its either the drive shaft or wheel alignment, the only question is..do you have to turn the steering wheel more than a quarter turn when driving jut to keep it straight cuz then thats your wheel alignment, and if not it might be your drive shaft going bad.94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
Sounds like it could be your alignment, especially after having your rotors and brakes changed. Simple fix, it'd be a good thing to check out.94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
First,I would check the power steering fluid.Look and see if one of the sway bar links has broken.it looks like a dumbbell,:a nut then a washer,a rubber bushing,the bolt goes thru the sway arm,then another bushing,then a washer,then a sleeve,then another washer and another bushing,then it goes through the lower swing arm with another bushing and washer underneath,and the bolt head......94 Toyota Celica Steering Wheel Vibration...?
Excellent question lots of good details and information.
Differing brands front to rear will not cause vibration
Start by having the wheels balanced and the tires checked for any visual tread mis-shapen conditions, if that does not correct the problem, spin up one side at a time with the vehicle on the hoist, I suspect you might have gotten an improperly machined rotor which could cause the vibration if this is the case the mechanic will not have any trouble figuring out which one it is using this test. While the car is up also check for worn ball joints and tie rod ends which will amplify vibrations and are safety hazards all by themselves.
If neither of these tests bear fruit, the next things to check are the drive shaft CV joints, they should be checked with the weight of the car on the wheels, and the transmission in neutral, to ensure they are in their normal alignment, which will be where the wear is. If the vibration is noticeably torque sensitive (changes with the throttle setting) head straight for the CV joints.
Once the vibration has been eliminated and any other loose components replaced have a front end alignment performed to get everything back in correct position and ensure proper handling and good tire wear.
How to remove brake rotors on a 2005 Malibu Maxx?
I am trying to change the Brake pads and rotors and an 05 Malibu maxx. Getting the tire and the brake calipers removed is the easy part. But now I'm having a hard time getting the rotor off. Should the rotor come off freely after removing the calipers? Or is there something else holding it on that I'm not seeing? I thought maybe it was just really rusted on so I held a small piece of wood to it and tried to tap it loose with a hammer but this thing will not budge. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!How to remove brake rotors on a 2005 Malibu Maxx?
Get rid of the wood, smack the front surface of the rotor between the wheel studs hard, turn it, hit hard, keep doing that til the rotor breaks loose from the hub. You are wasting time using wood.How to remove brake rotors on a 2005 Malibu Maxx?
it probably uses the same design common on most hondas. the rotor is probably pressed on the hub. you will have to remove the whole hub assembly and remove the rotor using a press. and you will need to replace the wheel bearing as wellHow to remove brake rotors on a 2005 Malibu Maxx?
it should just slide right off the hub after you remove the caliper. put a pry bar behind it and slap it good with a hammer but watch you don,t bend the backing plate.
Get rid of the wood, smack the front surface of the rotor between the wheel studs hard, turn it, hit hard, keep doing that til the rotor breaks loose from the hub. You are wasting time using wood.How to remove brake rotors on a 2005 Malibu Maxx?
it probably uses the same design common on most hondas. the rotor is probably pressed on the hub. you will have to remove the whole hub assembly and remove the rotor using a press. and you will need to replace the wheel bearing as wellHow to remove brake rotors on a 2005 Malibu Maxx?
it should just slide right off the hub after you remove the caliper. put a pry bar behind it and slap it good with a hammer but watch you don,t bend the backing plate.
How to remove a rotor housing from a jeep grand cherokee?
I wanted to change the brakes on a 2004 jeep cherokee but found the rotor needs to be changed. There are two bolts holding the housing that holds the rotor in place. I need to know what size wrench to use to remove the bolts to the housing.How to remove a rotor housing from a jeep grand cherokee?
Better seek help from a mechanic..
Better seek help from a mechanic..
Changing brakes, but what about rotors?
tacoma with 30k on it. i can %26quot;feel%26quot; im gonna need to replace the brakes at aroudn 35k. how do i tell if i should resurface rotors? it doesnt really feel bumpy or choppy when i brake. how much should i pay to resurface my rotors? do i need to do two or 4. back are drum.Changing brakes, but what about rotors?
If your back wheels have drum brakes, you won't need rotors for them.
Resurfacing rotors usually isn't worth it. Even with newer cars, new rotors can be bought for $40-50 and will include a warranty. Brakes are something I don't like to chance. It's a small investment with a large reward.Changing brakes, but what about rotors?
30,000 miles on it your rotors should be fine, when using your new pads take it easy for the first 5000 miles.Changing brakes, but what about rotors?
While you (or a service centre) are changing your front brake pads, check the rotor condition. If they are reasonably in good condition they will be ok. Measure the thickness of the rotor with a micrometer or caliper. They must be within the car manufacturer's specs.
After replacing the pads, %26quot;run them in%26quot; as specified by the manufacturer. This is normally a few heavy brake applications at different speeds. about 15 minutes is needed, not 5000 miles.
Change you rear brake shoes every second pad change.
Good luck.Changing brakes, but what about rotors?
when ever brake pads are re-newed, rotors must be machined smooth for flush contact (sweet), now rotors should only be replaced when they are close, or exceed minimum thickness (check specs through manufacturer or ring a rotor supplier, because sometimes your local mechanic might want to do a 'swifty' e.g. he loves your cash). Do your mechanical research and save a bundle.Changing brakes, but what about rotors?
you would be better to just spend the extra money and put new rotors on if needed, new will make your new brakes last longer also.Changing brakes, but what about rotors?
You should resurface the rotors or replace them with some Centric Econo rotors. The new rotors may cost just a few bux more than a resurfacing and are better than most other premium brands.
I sometimes %26quot;pad slap%26quot; when I do a break job on my cars if the rotors don't have any dark blue areas. I always replace the brake hardware kits, and I never have any brake noise.
I would also inspect the rear brakes. Clean out the dust with a garden hose and then hit it with some brake parts cleaner. Pull the boots back on the wheel cylinders and make sure there isn't any brake fluid leaking. These are just dust caps. Then adjust your rear brakes and slap the tires back on using a torque wrench. Exact specifications don't matter as much as even torque
If your back wheels have drum brakes, you won't need rotors for them.
Resurfacing rotors usually isn't worth it. Even with newer cars, new rotors can be bought for $40-50 and will include a warranty. Brakes are something I don't like to chance. It's a small investment with a large reward.Changing brakes, but what about rotors?
30,000 miles on it your rotors should be fine, when using your new pads take it easy for the first 5000 miles.Changing brakes, but what about rotors?
While you (or a service centre) are changing your front brake pads, check the rotor condition. If they are reasonably in good condition they will be ok. Measure the thickness of the rotor with a micrometer or caliper. They must be within the car manufacturer's specs.
After replacing the pads, %26quot;run them in%26quot; as specified by the manufacturer. This is normally a few heavy brake applications at different speeds. about 15 minutes is needed, not 5000 miles.
Change you rear brake shoes every second pad change.
Good luck.Changing brakes, but what about rotors?
when ever brake pads are re-newed, rotors must be machined smooth for flush contact (sweet), now rotors should only be replaced when they are close, or exceed minimum thickness (check specs through manufacturer or ring a rotor supplier, because sometimes your local mechanic might want to do a 'swifty' e.g. he loves your cash). Do your mechanical research and save a bundle.Changing brakes, but what about rotors?
you would be better to just spend the extra money and put new rotors on if needed, new will make your new brakes last longer also.Changing brakes, but what about rotors?
You should resurface the rotors or replace them with some Centric Econo rotors. The new rotors may cost just a few bux more than a resurfacing and are better than most other premium brands.
I sometimes %26quot;pad slap%26quot; when I do a break job on my cars if the rotors don't have any dark blue areas. I always replace the brake hardware kits, and I never have any brake noise.
I would also inspect the rear brakes. Clean out the dust with a garden hose and then hit it with some brake parts cleaner. Pull the boots back on the wheel cylinders and make sure there isn't any brake fluid leaking. These are just dust caps. Then adjust your rear brakes and slap the tires back on using a torque wrench. Exact specifications don't matter as much as even torque
How much is a tune up 1987 Iroc z?
Total price Im talking all fluids changed from the radiator to the differential in th rear end. Changing plugs, wires, cap, rotor and all the belts.How much is a tune up 1987 Iroc z?
the 87 iroc-z is a model ive worked on considerably, from engine swaps trans swaps rearend swaps, to major tuneups,radiator swaps, and coolant flushes. On the diff. oil change, your looking at about one hour labor, and maybe 2 qts gear oil, plus G.M. wants you to add a bottle of their hypoid gear additive.so depending on labor rates in your area thats about a hundred dollars.trans oil and filter another hour and a filter for ten bucks with gasket and 4- 6 qts oil, another 15 bucks, for a hundred and ten or so. Coolant flush a hundred should cover it. tuneup with new wires, and dist cap and rotor, which that year has, 1. 5 hours and a hundred and twenty bucks for parts,so two forty or so.Oil change, tweny five in parts, twenty five in labor.How much is a tune up 1987 Iroc z?
that is mor than a tune up
at least 300 but not mor than 800 depends ware you go to get it dunHow much is a tune up 1987 Iroc z?
$200 roughly
including All fluids . The tranny takes 3 gallons of fluid
the 87 iroc-z is a model ive worked on considerably, from engine swaps trans swaps rearend swaps, to major tuneups,radiator swaps, and coolant flushes. On the diff. oil change, your looking at about one hour labor, and maybe 2 qts gear oil, plus G.M. wants you to add a bottle of their hypoid gear additive.so depending on labor rates in your area thats about a hundred dollars.trans oil and filter another hour and a filter for ten bucks with gasket and 4- 6 qts oil, another 15 bucks, for a hundred and ten or so. Coolant flush a hundred should cover it. tuneup with new wires, and dist cap and rotor, which that year has, 1. 5 hours and a hundred and twenty bucks for parts,so two forty or so.Oil change, tweny five in parts, twenty five in labor.How much is a tune up 1987 Iroc z?
that is mor than a tune up
at least 300 but not mor than 800 depends ware you go to get it dunHow much is a tune up 1987 Iroc z?
$200 roughly
including All fluids . The tranny takes 3 gallons of fluid
How can you tell if the ignition control module is bad?
I done a simle tune up. i got it all changed spark plugs, wires, rotor button, distributor cap, now it cranks but wont start. getting good fire from coil just none from distributor to plugs?How can you tell if the ignition control module is bad?
Double check to see if your rotor and cap are both seated correctly.How can you tell if the ignition control module is bad?
take out all the guess work out of it take it to like a auto-zone they test it for freeHow can you tell if the ignition control module is bad?
If you had a bad ignition control module you wouldn't get any spark from the coil at all. Your problem lies in the wires. Either the coil wire is not inserted all the way at both ends which is why there is no power at the distributor or some of the wires are switched. I am thinking the wires are switched or not inserted all the way and are not making a good contact. Sure to make sure they are all making contacts.networking data into xsds
Double check to see if your rotor and cap are both seated correctly.How can you tell if the ignition control module is bad?
take out all the guess work out of it take it to like a auto-zone they test it for freeHow can you tell if the ignition control module is bad?
If you had a bad ignition control module you wouldn't get any spark from the coil at all. Your problem lies in the wires. Either the coil wire is not inserted all the way at both ends which is why there is no power at the distributor or some of the wires are switched. I am thinking the wires are switched or not inserted all the way and are not making a good contact. Sure to make sure they are all making contacts.
How do you get the front caliper off of a 1998 Ford Mustang?
The title says it all...I need to change the brake pads and rotors...but I can't get the caliper off.How do you get the front caliper off of a 1998 Ford Mustang?
pull the wheel off,two bolts hold the caliper on,after u pull the caliper off,u can see the brake pads sitting in the caliper bracket,u can just pull those off,if u need to get to the rotors,u gotta take two more bolts out of the bracket,the rotor should just pull off or u might have to smack it with a hammer that is if its a pull of rotor,if its a rotor with wheel bearing in it u gotta take the dust cap off and take the nut off and along with the bearing,its fairly simple,hope that helps.How do you get the front caliper off of a 1998 Ford Mustang?
You'll need 1/2 inch metric sockets and a minimum of a 12 inch ratchet. If a 12 inch ratchet doesn't get the bolts loose on the caliper and caliper bracket get a 16%26quot; breaker bar. To collapse the caliper piston before trying to remove the caliper from the caliper bracket use a carpenters screw clamp or a monster c-clamp.How do you get the front caliper off of a 1998 Ford Mustang?
The calipers are held on by two bolts, the bolts have to come out of the caliper to come off that bracket. If you got that done and your having trouble getting the caliper off the rotor then you have to take some care and try to pry it off. The brake pads have worn down around the outer edge of the rotor and cant get passed a small lip that has built up there. Drain some brake fluid out of the caliper and see if that helps. That bracket has to come off, it might of had some lock-tite used on it. That will need some heat on it from a torch or a electric paint stripper to get the bolt loose.
pull the wheel off,two bolts hold the caliper on,after u pull the caliper off,u can see the brake pads sitting in the caliper bracket,u can just pull those off,if u need to get to the rotors,u gotta take two more bolts out of the bracket,the rotor should just pull off or u might have to smack it with a hammer that is if its a pull of rotor,if its a rotor with wheel bearing in it u gotta take the dust cap off and take the nut off and along with the bearing,its fairly simple,hope that helps.How do you get the front caliper off of a 1998 Ford Mustang?
You'll need 1/2 inch metric sockets and a minimum of a 12 inch ratchet. If a 12 inch ratchet doesn't get the bolts loose on the caliper and caliper bracket get a 16%26quot; breaker bar. To collapse the caliper piston before trying to remove the caliper from the caliper bracket use a carpenters screw clamp or a monster c-clamp.How do you get the front caliper off of a 1998 Ford Mustang?
The calipers are held on by two bolts, the bolts have to come out of the caliper to come off that bracket. If you got that done and your having trouble getting the caliper off the rotor then you have to take some care and try to pry it off. The brake pads have worn down around the outer edge of the rotor and cant get passed a small lip that has built up there. Drain some brake fluid out of the caliper and see if that helps. That bracket has to come off, it might of had some lock-tite used on it. That will need some heat on it from a torch or a electric paint stripper to get the bolt loose.
Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
I'm a single mother who's brakes just went. I don't have a lot of money and can't afford to take my car into a dealership. I'm VERY good with my hands and I don't mind getting dirty (please no smart comments). I've never dont any car repair but i have done a little research. My question is how hard will it be to change my brake pads and rotors by myself being that i've never done a car repair on my own. (I've built plenty of things around the house...) And, also any suggestions?Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
well ususally it is not too hard. depends on the vehicle. go to a local parts store and get yourelf a repair manual for your car. it will tell you step by step with pictures. usually its just a couple bolts you have to remove.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
those damn rusted nuts are hard to get off there... I've tried and I went to a garage 1 hour after. Can't take that damn top nut off.( the one holding the break pad cylinders casing ) Don't go to a dealership, any mexican can do that. Brakes would be easy to change if everything was like new... the rotors are the easy part.
try anyway, if all the nuts unscrew , you're good to go.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
Changing the rotors can be a little difficult you may want someone for support but I can change break pads with my eyes closed, just find a good how to book or site.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
Doing brakes is a little more difficult than say painting around the house. Your life as well as others is in jeapordy if done incorrectly. I would suggest not doing brake work if you've never worked on cars before. Try learning oil changes, airing your tires, changing your air filter etc.....I suggest if you have your own parts, find a shop that will install your parts and have them do the work. There wont be a warranty if you furnish the parts but the cost would be around 100 dollars. Either that or find a friend that has done some brake work and pay them.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
brakes are not difficult, at least I don't think so anyway, I just buy the parts and they have a repair manual at the auto parts store.
The name of the books you can get for your car is either Chilton, or Hayes, they are specific to your car, or similar models. Example; I have a Mercury Grand Marquis, and the book covers the Ford Crown Victoria which is the same thing.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
Brakes are Very important, please only do them if you have a experienced friend, you'll need a friend to help you bleed the lines ( any air in the brake line will compress when you push the brake, instead of applying the pressure to the disk/drum)
Good LuckChanging brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
I certainly admire your determination and willingness to do your own brake work, but because you have admittedly never done any auto repairs - I would highly recommend that you don't start with a brake job. Perhaps a water pump or something similar - if you don't do it correctly, it still leaks - no big deal - but brakes? If you do this incorrectly, it could be a very big deal. Perhaps you know someone with a little experience and he or she could assist you? If not - bite the bullet and take it into a service shop.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
some tools and a c-clamp you can do it pretty quickly. Be careful it takes special tools to remove some calipers. AutoZone will tell you if you need specialty tools.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
youtube and expert village.com offer really good videos to tell you how to do these things . good luckChanging brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
Although I would love to make some %26quot;smart%26quot; comments about your %26quot;getting dirty%26quot; remark, I'll refrain.
Changing brakepads and maybe rotors by yourself for the first time will be impossible. You will likely not do it right and cause an accident or wind up leaving your car in a condition where it cannot be brought to a mechanic.
What you need to do is have someone there with experience who has done this before.
Some cars have rotors that can be slapped on without even spinning a bolt, some require specialized tools.
You'll need the following for brake pads:
1. new brakepads
2. brake fluid - a bottle
3. a large C-clamp
4. appropriate drivers - philips head, flat head, sparx, etc
5. A good pair of pliers.
You will need to remember to collapse the caliper and bleed the brakes. Remember to loosen that nut looking thing on the caliper to allow brake fluid to seep before you colapse it.
Once you have done this a couple of times, this becomes old hat. It becomes easy and a great way to save money.
Best of luck with this, you can do it!
Finally, I'd also like to say that it is very, very sexy when a woman changes her own brakes. Especially if she's wearing blue denim overalls that are a couple of sizes too big and a skin tight white tank top.... so... what are you doing later? heheChanging brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
there are alot of little details that go into a good brake job as apposed to one that will shake after few weeks of driving,supporting vehicle safely ,tools and chemicals make the first time expensive after that its not to bad .as an ex mechanis i have all the stuff so it takes me about an hour and 1/2 to do it in the driveway with out air tools, if you do it wrong best case is the car is stuck in your driveway worst is you crash.find someone whos done it and buy them some beer to sit and watch/advise you.its easier to talk them into watching then kneeling on the concrete for a couple of hoursChanging brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
Just as long as you dont mind getting dirty you didnt say what kind of car it is but about the best advice I can give you is go to the parts store where you got your pads and get a repair manual for your car it has step by step instructions with pictures as far as your rotors go you probably wont need them unless they have really deep grooves in them i mean almost through to the other side deep I have seen it happen before where the pads were past the rivits but anyhow 9 times out of 10 you can just have them turned but its not a requirement and while your out you might want to get some hand cleaner your going to need it if you need any help feel free to contact me directChanging brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
best solution. go to your local auto zone. and get some advice. you will need a big clamp, maybe about 12 - 16 inches. a Big one. for your brakes. then they will help you with the rotors. you may have to have them turned good idea to do that. auto zone guys will help you. or find a good friend to help you. its about 30 min a side for your brakes you can do it.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
EASY JOB. Get the wheels off, and unbolt the brake calipers from the spindle(if the bolts are tough get a can of PB blaster and spray'em up). you'll also wanna pick up a brake pad spreader(to push the pistons back in) then just replace the pads. once you get the calipers off the rotor will come right off, just put the new one on(make sure they're clean!) and slide the caliper w/new pads back over the rotor and bolt it back on. put the wheel back on and you're done!
BE SURE TO CHECK THE FLUID AND PUMP UP THE BRAKES BEFORE YOU TRY TO DRIVE. If they stay soft or spongy, you'll have to bleed them. you'll need help with that.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
it is a very easy job to do brake pads and rotors. all u have to do is pull the two slide bolts that hold that caliper on, and use a clamp to push the inside cylinder of the brake caliper in. then just pull of the rotor, put the new rotor on, slap the new pads in, put it back into place, and put the bolts back in. use the manual to verify the parts. it is a very very easy job and a good way to pick up mechanical knowledge.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
Some cars require a puller of press to remove the rotors. But if you don't need this, it's easy. Just read a repair manual before you start to make sure you can do all the required work and have the proper tools on hand. It's frustrating to need to drive to the parts store when you've already taken your car apart!Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
Just chipping in another word of encouragement to try doing it yourself.
The sites listed above will help. This one explains it too.
http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/howto/a
If you have Anti-Lock Brakes you need to bleed the brakes just a little. If you're not sure if you have them look for an ABS light when you start your car. Bleeding brakes is easy but it really helps to have someone step on the brakes for you, by the way. The other way I've done it myself is to prop a stick between the brake pedal and the driver's seat and scoot the seat up until it depresses the pedal. Then you go out, loosen the valve a little to release the fluid until it doesn't shoot out very much anymore then quickly retighten it so no air gets in. Then scoot the seat back and start over again one more time if you want or do it for the other side.
Also, if you're really looking to save money don't buy the brake cleaner. Maybe it helps but I don't and all the brakes I've done have worked fine.
Consider checking to see if your local parts store can turn (polish/clean up) your rotors instead of buying new ones. It's about $7.50 vs about $40 for new.
well ususally it is not too hard. depends on the vehicle. go to a local parts store and get yourelf a repair manual for your car. it will tell you step by step with pictures. usually its just a couple bolts you have to remove.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
those damn rusted nuts are hard to get off there... I've tried and I went to a garage 1 hour after. Can't take that damn top nut off.( the one holding the break pad cylinders casing ) Don't go to a dealership, any mexican can do that. Brakes would be easy to change if everything was like new... the rotors are the easy part.
try anyway, if all the nuts unscrew , you're good to go.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
Changing the rotors can be a little difficult you may want someone for support but I can change break pads with my eyes closed, just find a good how to book or site.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
Doing brakes is a little more difficult than say painting around the house. Your life as well as others is in jeapordy if done incorrectly. I would suggest not doing brake work if you've never worked on cars before. Try learning oil changes, airing your tires, changing your air filter etc.....I suggest if you have your own parts, find a shop that will install your parts and have them do the work. There wont be a warranty if you furnish the parts but the cost would be around 100 dollars. Either that or find a friend that has done some brake work and pay them.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
brakes are not difficult, at least I don't think so anyway, I just buy the parts and they have a repair manual at the auto parts store.
The name of the books you can get for your car is either Chilton, or Hayes, they are specific to your car, or similar models. Example; I have a Mercury Grand Marquis, and the book covers the Ford Crown Victoria which is the same thing.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
Brakes are Very important, please only do them if you have a experienced friend, you'll need a friend to help you bleed the lines ( any air in the brake line will compress when you push the brake, instead of applying the pressure to the disk/drum)
Good LuckChanging brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
I certainly admire your determination and willingness to do your own brake work, but because you have admittedly never done any auto repairs - I would highly recommend that you don't start with a brake job. Perhaps a water pump or something similar - if you don't do it correctly, it still leaks - no big deal - but brakes? If you do this incorrectly, it could be a very big deal. Perhaps you know someone with a little experience and he or she could assist you? If not - bite the bullet and take it into a service shop.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
some tools and a c-clamp you can do it pretty quickly. Be careful it takes special tools to remove some calipers. AutoZone will tell you if you need specialty tools.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
youtube and expert village.com offer really good videos to tell you how to do these things . good luckChanging brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
Although I would love to make some %26quot;smart%26quot; comments about your %26quot;getting dirty%26quot; remark, I'll refrain.
Changing brakepads and maybe rotors by yourself for the first time will be impossible. You will likely not do it right and cause an accident or wind up leaving your car in a condition where it cannot be brought to a mechanic.
What you need to do is have someone there with experience who has done this before.
Some cars have rotors that can be slapped on without even spinning a bolt, some require specialized tools.
You'll need the following for brake pads:
1. new brakepads
2. brake fluid - a bottle
3. a large C-clamp
4. appropriate drivers - philips head, flat head, sparx, etc
5. A good pair of pliers.
You will need to remember to collapse the caliper and bleed the brakes. Remember to loosen that nut looking thing on the caliper to allow brake fluid to seep before you colapse it.
Once you have done this a couple of times, this becomes old hat. It becomes easy and a great way to save money.
Best of luck with this, you can do it!
Finally, I'd also like to say that it is very, very sexy when a woman changes her own brakes. Especially if she's wearing blue denim overalls that are a couple of sizes too big and a skin tight white tank top.... so... what are you doing later? heheChanging brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
there are alot of little details that go into a good brake job as apposed to one that will shake after few weeks of driving,supporting vehicle safely ,tools and chemicals make the first time expensive after that its not to bad .as an ex mechanis i have all the stuff so it takes me about an hour and 1/2 to do it in the driveway with out air tools, if you do it wrong best case is the car is stuck in your driveway worst is you crash.find someone whos done it and buy them some beer to sit and watch/advise you.its easier to talk them into watching then kneeling on the concrete for a couple of hoursChanging brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
Just as long as you dont mind getting dirty you didnt say what kind of car it is but about the best advice I can give you is go to the parts store where you got your pads and get a repair manual for your car it has step by step instructions with pictures as far as your rotors go you probably wont need them unless they have really deep grooves in them i mean almost through to the other side deep I have seen it happen before where the pads were past the rivits but anyhow 9 times out of 10 you can just have them turned but its not a requirement and while your out you might want to get some hand cleaner your going to need it if you need any help feel free to contact me directChanging brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
best solution. go to your local auto zone. and get some advice. you will need a big clamp, maybe about 12 - 16 inches. a Big one. for your brakes. then they will help you with the rotors. you may have to have them turned good idea to do that. auto zone guys will help you. or find a good friend to help you. its about 30 min a side for your brakes you can do it.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
EASY JOB. Get the wheels off, and unbolt the brake calipers from the spindle(if the bolts are tough get a can of PB blaster and spray'em up). you'll also wanna pick up a brake pad spreader(to push the pistons back in) then just replace the pads. once you get the calipers off the rotor will come right off, just put the new one on(make sure they're clean!) and slide the caliper w/new pads back over the rotor and bolt it back on. put the wheel back on and you're done!
BE SURE TO CHECK THE FLUID AND PUMP UP THE BRAKES BEFORE YOU TRY TO DRIVE. If they stay soft or spongy, you'll have to bleed them. you'll need help with that.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
it is a very easy job to do brake pads and rotors. all u have to do is pull the two slide bolts that hold that caliper on, and use a clamp to push the inside cylinder of the brake caliper in. then just pull of the rotor, put the new rotor on, slap the new pads in, put it back into place, and put the bolts back in. use the manual to verify the parts. it is a very very easy job and a good way to pick up mechanical knowledge.Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
Some cars require a puller of press to remove the rotors. But if you don't need this, it's easy. Just read a repair manual before you start to make sure you can do all the required work and have the proper tools on hand. It's frustrating to need to drive to the parts store when you've already taken your car apart!Changing brake pads and maybe rotors by myself?
Just chipping in another word of encouragement to try doing it yourself.
The sites listed above will help. This one explains it too.
http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/howto/a
If you have Anti-Lock Brakes you need to bleed the brakes just a little. If you're not sure if you have them look for an ABS light when you start your car. Bleeding brakes is easy but it really helps to have someone step on the brakes for you, by the way. The other way I've done it myself is to prop a stick between the brake pedal and the driver's seat and scoot the seat up until it depresses the pedal. Then you go out, loosen the valve a little to release the fluid until it doesn't shoot out very much anymore then quickly retighten it so no air gets in. Then scoot the seat back and start over again one more time if you want or do it for the other side.
Also, if you're really looking to save money don't buy the brake cleaner. Maybe it helps but I don't and all the brakes I've done have worked fine.
Consider checking to see if your local parts store can turn (polish/clean up) your rotors instead of buying new ones. It's about $7.50 vs about $40 for new.
How do you take the rotor of a dodge carvan front?
what is the best way to change the brakes and rotor on a dodge carvanHow do you take the rotor of a dodge carvan front?
Start by removing a wheel(1/4 or 19mm. lug nuts). Remove the 10mm. or may be 13mm. bolt from the caliper. Use a straight screwdriver to pry off caliper. Press the caliper piston back into the caliper with channel locks or a C clamp. Reason for only taking 1 caliper off at a time is so the other caliper piston does not come out of the caliper when pressing 1 piston back (pushing fluid to the other side). It's also normal for fluid to come out the master cylinder. You may have to spray lubricant of the rotor and beat the rotor off. Once off you could put antisieze on the spindle, disc brake quiet on the pads(can buy at auto store). Rotor may come off easier next service with anti seize on spindle. Lube all slides and reverse directions to put back together. Good luck!How do you take the rotor of a dodge carvan front?
take the calipers off, beat the heck out of the rotors, till they come off, then put the new ones on.. just remember to push the caliper piston back in, before you put the new pads on...How do you take the rotor of a dodge carvan front?
if you have front disc brakes and its like a dodge ram theni can help. first off get a allen wrench or a socket type that is 3/8 and remove the bolts holding on the calipers. next find a place for the calipers to rest while you work. dont let them hang there. next remove the cotter pin on the outside of rotor. next remove the rotor will prolly require some beating with a rubber mallet or dead blow. next take the wheel bearing grease seal out of the back side of the rotor and remove the bearings. next repack the bearings and place in new rotor. put on new wheel bearing grease seal. the reverse the order of operations used to remove. now take a c-clamp and push the piston back in the caliper. install new pad and place caliper over rotor. install bolts. and your done. oh the best thing to do is to go to a auto parts store and buy the haynes manual.
Start by removing a wheel(1/4 or 19mm. lug nuts). Remove the 10mm. or may be 13mm. bolt from the caliper. Use a straight screwdriver to pry off caliper. Press the caliper piston back into the caliper with channel locks or a C clamp. Reason for only taking 1 caliper off at a time is so the other caliper piston does not come out of the caliper when pressing 1 piston back (pushing fluid to the other side). It's also normal for fluid to come out the master cylinder. You may have to spray lubricant of the rotor and beat the rotor off. Once off you could put antisieze on the spindle, disc brake quiet on the pads(can buy at auto store). Rotor may come off easier next service with anti seize on spindle. Lube all slides and reverse directions to put back together. Good luck!How do you take the rotor of a dodge carvan front?
take the calipers off, beat the heck out of the rotors, till they come off, then put the new ones on.. just remember to push the caliper piston back in, before you put the new pads on...How do you take the rotor of a dodge carvan front?
if you have front disc brakes and its like a dodge ram theni can help. first off get a allen wrench or a socket type that is 3/8 and remove the bolts holding on the calipers. next find a place for the calipers to rest while you work. dont let them hang there. next remove the cotter pin on the outside of rotor. next remove the rotor will prolly require some beating with a rubber mallet or dead blow. next take the wheel bearing grease seal out of the back side of the rotor and remove the bearings. next repack the bearings and place in new rotor. put on new wheel bearing grease seal. the reverse the order of operations used to remove. now take a c-clamp and push the piston back in the caliper. install new pad and place caliper over rotor. install bolts. and your done. oh the best thing to do is to go to a auto parts store and buy the haynes manual.
My rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
how do i change a disc rotor on a 92 ford ranger. do i just take it off and put a new one on or do i have to repack bearings and get new seals? i just need one, weird how one rotor had absolutly nothing wrong with it and the other i swear i kid you not looked like a frisbee.My rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
Forget machining if it looks like a frisbee, it is too far gone to machine. You will have to remove bearings and seals to replace the rotor. Repack and reseal as necessary if you can get off without damaging. Does the vehicle pull to one side when braking? You may have one caliper sticking or a clogged brake hose on one side. Both sides should wear evenly. Have it checked by a professional, you don't want to mess around with something as important as the braking system.
Update: Just replace the side that is frisbee shaped if you already had the other side replaced. Weight has nothing to do with it. You can use the same bearings and seals over again if not damaged. The bearings will come out easily. I usually take out the outer bearing then install the nut back on the spindle a few turns, then tilt the rotor downward and pull outward on the rotor, catching the edge of the inner bearing on the nut on the way out. In one swift motion you can remove the inner bearing and seal at the same time and not damage either. They will stay on the spindle, behind the spindle nut. This may sound confusing, but if someone helped replace the other side, it may be time to call on them again.My rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
dont replace the rotor...have it Machined (cheaper..more effective too)
does your car %26quot;shimmy%26quot;%26quot;vibrate%26quot; when coming to a stop?
that would indicate rotors..if its just squealing its the pads.My rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
If it looks like a frisbee it's too far gone to be machined. Most cars and trucks do not require you to take the hub off. the rotor is usually pressed onto a fitting with the wheel bolts. If only one is damaged I would have both the calipers checked. Either one isn't working ( the perfect rotor) or one is somehow chewing up the rotor.My rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
you need to take it to a shop and have it checked if it wore off that uneven there is a reason for it,they may be able to repair it fairly cheap,,there probably wont be enough of it left to actually have it turned,,or machined down,,so you may need a new one for it,,it would be a good idea to have it checked out really good though before you go having a lot of money spent on it,,i hope this helps.My rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
Yes the bearings need to be repacked and the seal replaced.
The rotor can be machined as long as it is not worn or warped too bad. However if one is worse off than the other, there is another problem. The caliper may need to be serviced also
(both sides), or a brake hose is defective.My rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
ONE LOOKS GOOD AND ONE LOOKS BAD BECAUSE UR CALIPER IS FAULTY....
GOOD LUCKMy rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
check the rotor if it isn't scarred really bad change the pads and re pack the bearings if you nee to, other than that don't worry about it. I'm a mechanic and i can tell you this. no your rotor comes off the Axel and leaving it in place you have to take the break caliper off and then remove rotor then put the new one on and connect the caliper back up. if you need any further info email me.My rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
Not only do you need a new rotor, but brake pads too. You can by cheap rotors that have been machined from auto shops and brake pads r cheap. Remember to bleed the brakes after putting it all back on.
Forget machining if it looks like a frisbee, it is too far gone to machine. You will have to remove bearings and seals to replace the rotor. Repack and reseal as necessary if you can get off without damaging. Does the vehicle pull to one side when braking? You may have one caliper sticking or a clogged brake hose on one side. Both sides should wear evenly. Have it checked by a professional, you don't want to mess around with something as important as the braking system.
Update: Just replace the side that is frisbee shaped if you already had the other side replaced. Weight has nothing to do with it. You can use the same bearings and seals over again if not damaged. The bearings will come out easily. I usually take out the outer bearing then install the nut back on the spindle a few turns, then tilt the rotor downward and pull outward on the rotor, catching the edge of the inner bearing on the nut on the way out. In one swift motion you can remove the inner bearing and seal at the same time and not damage either. They will stay on the spindle, behind the spindle nut. This may sound confusing, but if someone helped replace the other side, it may be time to call on them again.My rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
dont replace the rotor...have it Machined (cheaper..more effective too)
does your car %26quot;shimmy%26quot;%26quot;vibrate%26quot; when coming to a stop?
that would indicate rotors..if its just squealing its the pads.My rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
If it looks like a frisbee it's too far gone to be machined. Most cars and trucks do not require you to take the hub off. the rotor is usually pressed onto a fitting with the wheel bolts. If only one is damaged I would have both the calipers checked. Either one isn't working ( the perfect rotor) or one is somehow chewing up the rotor.My rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
you need to take it to a shop and have it checked if it wore off that uneven there is a reason for it,they may be able to repair it fairly cheap,,there probably wont be enough of it left to actually have it turned,,or machined down,,so you may need a new one for it,,it would be a good idea to have it checked out really good though before you go having a lot of money spent on it,,i hope this helps.My rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
Yes the bearings need to be repacked and the seal replaced.
The rotor can be machined as long as it is not worn or warped too bad. However if one is worse off than the other, there is another problem. The caliper may need to be serviced also
(both sides), or a brake hose is defective.My rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
ONE LOOKS GOOD AND ONE LOOKS BAD BECAUSE UR CALIPER IS FAULTY....
GOOD LUCKMy rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
check the rotor if it isn't scarred really bad change the pads and re pack the bearings if you nee to, other than that don't worry about it. I'm a mechanic and i can tell you this. no your rotor comes off the Axel and leaving it in place you have to take the break caliper off and then remove rotor then put the new one on and connect the caliper back up. if you need any further info email me.My rotor looks like a frisbee!!!?
Not only do you need a new rotor, but brake pads too. You can by cheap rotors that have been machined from auto shops and brake pads r cheap. Remember to bleed the brakes after putting it all back on.
How do I turn off my traction control on my 88 IROC-Z 5.7 Liter 350?
One more question.
I am buying new brakes for my front end on my IROC. I am probably buying the friction performance brakes that are made of CM or carbon metallic. Do I need to change my front rotors as well or can I keep the ones I have now with the new brakes?How do I turn off my traction control on my 88 IROC-Z 5.7 Liter 350?
Your understanding of what is happening is very, very backwards. Spinning of tires is a direct loss of traction. Traction control is there to stop traction loss and keep the tires from spinning. An 88 Camaro has no form of traction control. What you may be talking about is a limited slip differential, which distributes available power evenly. Fixing your problem is a matter of upgrading parts, tire, or driver.
Always have the rotors resurface or replaced when replacing pads.How do I turn off my traction control on my 88 IROC-Z 5.7 Liter 350?
ummm.. Its a 1988 camaro.. It don't have traction control. So to to turn it on or off you will need to sell the car and buy one a few years newer lol
Your stock rotors will work with those pads, just be sure to turn rotors if any grooves are in them. Also be sure to clean rotors good with brake parts cleaner before putting your calipers back on.
I race a 1988 camaro as well. I use auto zone's duralast brake pads due to the life time replacement. I run through 1-2 pairs a year. Just pull em off and take them back to an auto zone sorry to get them replaced for free
Now as far as traction %26quot;control%26quot; goes.. Mine comes in the form of
jegster adjustable torque arm
Spohn adjustable LCAs
Spohn LCA brackets
Spohn adjustable panhard rod
KYB AGX adjustable rear shocks
Moog iroc rear springs
Air lift drag bags in rear springs
Worn out front struts
Stock v-6 front springs
Nitto 555R 275/60-15 drag radials on rear
Detroit locker in rear (ford 9%26quot;)
Spohn SFC
S%26amp;W 10 point roll cage
That gets me 1.60's 60' times pulling the front wheels about 4%26quot; off the track
My 0-60 mph times are avg of 3.2 seconds but have pulled a few 2.9'sTwister DOUBLE duvet set drawing a circle
I am buying new brakes for my front end on my IROC. I am probably buying the friction performance brakes that are made of CM or carbon metallic. Do I need to change my front rotors as well or can I keep the ones I have now with the new brakes?How do I turn off my traction control on my 88 IROC-Z 5.7 Liter 350?
Your understanding of what is happening is very, very backwards. Spinning of tires is a direct loss of traction. Traction control is there to stop traction loss and keep the tires from spinning. An 88 Camaro has no form of traction control. What you may be talking about is a limited slip differential, which distributes available power evenly. Fixing your problem is a matter of upgrading parts, tire, or driver.
Always have the rotors resurface or replaced when replacing pads.How do I turn off my traction control on my 88 IROC-Z 5.7 Liter 350?
ummm.. Its a 1988 camaro.. It don't have traction control. So to to turn it on or off you will need to sell the car and buy one a few years newer lol
Your stock rotors will work with those pads, just be sure to turn rotors if any grooves are in them. Also be sure to clean rotors good with brake parts cleaner before putting your calipers back on.
I race a 1988 camaro as well. I use auto zone's duralast brake pads due to the life time replacement. I run through 1-2 pairs a year. Just pull em off and take them back to an auto zone sorry to get them replaced for free
Now as far as traction %26quot;control%26quot; goes.. Mine comes in the form of
jegster adjustable torque arm
Spohn adjustable LCAs
Spohn LCA brackets
Spohn adjustable panhard rod
KYB AGX adjustable rear shocks
Moog iroc rear springs
Air lift drag bags in rear springs
Worn out front struts
Stock v-6 front springs
Nitto 555R 275/60-15 drag radials on rear
Detroit locker in rear (ford 9%26quot;)
Spohn SFC
S%26amp;W 10 point roll cage
That gets me 1.60's 60' times pulling the front wheels about 4%26quot; off the track
My 0-60 mph times are avg of 3.2 seconds but have pulled a few 2.9's
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